Waste Not, Want Not

by Jas Faulkner

Waste not, want not.  Few would argue with the wisdom of such a principle, but even fewer fully understand the extent to which it can be carried out in household, much less kitchen management. The idea of low to no household commodities waste is sometimes dismissed as a quaint, antiquated holdover from grandparents and great-grandparents who survived the economic depression that hit the US between World Wars.  To many, it has been rebranded.  Gramma's frugality now bears the shiny new title, "sustainable living."

Is this a bad thing?  Absolutely not. In fact, to cadge a phrase from Martha Stewart, it is a very good thing.

Like organic food production, upcycling/recycling/using every bit of everything from snout to tail is a shiny new concept surrounding older ways that have been kept alive by choice and circumstance.  Those who live in less developed parts of the United States, citizens of aboriginal North American reservations, urban dwellers who understand the need for commodities to be used up of because of the lack of space and resources for disposal, and yes, many college students.

Think you're already using everything in every way possible?  Here's a quick way to tell if that is the case:  What does your curb look like on the days the garbage truck rolls through?  If you're doing everything you should be doing, your average household waste for that week should fit into one, maybe two t-shirt bags.

No? Are you still screaming (on the inside, where it counts) "Hefty! Hefty! Hefty!" as you trudge to the sidewalk?   It's okay.  We all do it sometimes. If you're doing it every week, you need to know that it is possible to wean your wastebaskets and trash cans from a steady diet of stuff that could be recycled into rugs, clothing, planters and even fashionable vegan shoes. Keep in mind this kind of change does not have to be a zero sum proposition.  You can start small.  Just start!

Let me help you out with this.  Do you eat Annie's Mac 'n Cheese?  The next time you're in the mood for comfort food and you tear open a package, ad you're waiting for the water to boil, take a look at the box. Yes, the bunny is cute and the bumper sticker offer that has been open since I was an undergraduate is still on the side. What you'll also find are tips on how to reuse that box before it finally ends up in your recycling bin.

Low to no waste isn't limited to paper and plastic.  Take a look at that pretty yellow oval in your CSA box.  For those of you who have never tried spaghetti squash, you're missing out.  It has the texture and taste of a good veggie pasta prepared al dente the way the school cafeteria ladies never intended. Don't let this tasty, healthy treat go to waste.

I consulted with my friends and fellow veggie fans, Sylvia and Bill  Red Eagle, on the best ways to use every bit of a spaghetti squash.  Starting from the inside out:

Seeds: The tangle of seeds and mushy, fibrous stuff needs to be removed before the rest of it can be cooked.   Once you've scooped it out, begin to knead it and you'll find the seeds will start to fall out.  Rinse them off, buff them barely dry with a clean dishtowel and then spread them out on a cookie sheet.

They're great plain or you can season them with any of the following: cayenne, chili powder, garlic salt, grated parm or asiago, or cinnamon and a little sugar or (a tiny, tiny amount of) stevia if prefer a sweet snack.  Once you've seasoned them or not, pop the tray in an oven set at 275 degrees for five to ten minutes or until the seeds are dry, crisp, and slide around.

This recipe works with any squash or pumpkin seed and those seeds, called pepitas by my father's people (who also refer to corn as maiz, go figure...) are a great source of protein and fiber.  One cautionary note:  they are very rich in Omega-6, which do weird things to Omega-3s, which you and I and everyone we know  needs.  So, as Cookie Monster might say, they're probably best eaten as a sometimes snack when you happen to be cooking a winter squash.

Flesh:  Some people boil it, some steam it, the Red Eagles like to cut it in half and bake it flesh side down until the fibers pull away into "noodles".  They like it as a side with butter, salt and a little sauteed garlic or garlic scapes when they're in season or as a "chili mac" when the weather in Ft. Worth gets a little colder.  I like it topped with a good "tom 'n three plus" marinara ( tomatoes, onions, garlic, peppers plus herbs and wine).

The Skin, Stem and Seed Muck:  All of it composts beautifully.  If you have established a place for birds and other neighbor critters to visit and grab a bite, you'll find that they see the seed muck is like, the best snack ever to squirrels, titmice and black capped chickadees.

So, let's review.  You started with this ornery hard thing that you wondered if you could use as part of a centerpiece or a decoration for the guest book table at church and now you have a tasty snack, a great meal that is light on the carbs, and some good karma from feeding your fellow earthlings.  Best of all, none of that ended up in the trash.

Hungry for more?  Talk to your local farmer about their favorite ways to use winter squash.  You might want to check out these recipes by two of my favorite chefs/foodways preservation advocates:

Emeril Lagasse's herbed spaghetti squash is an easy dish after a rushed day.

Rick Bayless' "Worlds Greatest Chili" includes winter squash as part of his refit of a home kitchen classic.

Bon appetit and keep green!

Kathy Kuhn Wants To Know: What's In Your Kitchen?

by Jas Faulkner 

"My initial inspiration was the old timey saying waste not, 

want not, but after reading a lot of different articles and 

doing some internet research on green living,  I found that 

the new way of saying an old adage was: 

Reduce, Re-use, Recycle.”    

                                                                         -Kathy Kuhn

                                                                           Green-24-7.com

For most households, living a greener life starts with what goes into 

the pantry and on the table. Finding items that are eco-friendly and easily 

integrated into the day to day goings on in a household can be a challenge.  

Kathy Kuhn saw such a need was going unanswered, and this was one 

of the motivators behind the creation of her company, Green 24-7. 

At the same time, she wanted to echo the economy and frugality 

that makes the green movement not only a smart choice in the global 

sense but a wise way to manage a household on a very local level. 

The magical "Three R's" play a big role in the ethos behind Green 24-7.

"In times like these implementing the three “R’s” into 

our every day routine not only saves money and promotes efficiency 

in running the household, but also gives us a clear conscience in 

knowing that we are making a difference in helping to promote a 

sustainable lifestyle for the generations to come."  

A visit to the Green24-7 tent is a chance to see cutting-edge products that 

make recycling, composting and implementing smaller changes that add up 

when it comes to reducing your individual carbon footprint so much easier.  

Kuhn does her research to  to see that her products are as green in their origins 

as they will be in their use. Most are created from recycled or recyclable 

materials so eco-minded customers can buy with confidence.  

Kuhn hopes that a taste of the smaller successes in going green will inspire 

people to take bigger steps towards adopting more sustainable households.  

Her goal is "to reach the average American family and business in their day to 

day routine.  Small changes have big outcomes when more and more people 

continue to live responsibly."

What three things does she think we can do to  make Nashville a cleaner, 

greener placeto live?  

"Recycle, Reduce (waste) and Reuse.  

We cannot continue to throw everything into a 

giant trash can and buy new."

With attitudes changing, ENFM Blog asked Ms Kuhn what she sees that makes

her feel hopeful about the future of Nashville as an eco-friendly city.

"Many people are into recycling and most are open 

to the fact that they know they must 

begin to do so.  It is easy and it is simply routine.  

If you have a compartment or bin to 

put recycleable items in, your household or business 

stays organized and is acting 

responsibly.  It is the least we all can do and 

it's not cool to ignore its importance."

Want more information about Green 24-7?

visit Kathy Kuhn's website at:

http://Green-24-7.com 

or drop by her booth at 

East Nashville Farmers Market!

The BEhive Reaches Out To Make Life A Little Sweeter

by Jas Faulkner
(Images still aren't working, people. Apologies to everyone involved!) 

"The Heart-Hive logo signifies that we are a collective, much like an actual bee hive, with only good natured intentions that come from the heart. We are where we live; we are what we eat, and we all have the responsibility to protect and nourish both. The BE Hive is the vehicle for this philosophy."
                            -Benjamin, The BEhive                                    

Wednesday afternoons at the farmers market are always a feast for the senses. There is live music coming from the gifted musicians who offer to play in the center of the park.  The colorful tents compete with the brilliant hues of fresh produce and artisinal goods that catch the eye from every direction.   Among the smells of handmade bars of soap and fresh cut herbs, there is the aroma of grilling that wafts its way around the square, beckoning the hot, the tired, and the hungry to get a good, healthy bite while they are there.

You may have walked by that booth, the one with the curious, engaging logo that is part heart, part beehive.  What is it all about?  What can this mean when you encounter the delicious food, the artful presentation, and the general good vibrations? 

Meet the BEhive.  It’s a band, it’s a creative collective, and it’s a force for good in Music City.  You may have seen ads for their benefit buffets at The Wild Cow.  (You haven’t been to the Wild Cow yet?  Why not?)  You have walked past their table, paused because, yes, that grill is tempting and then walked on.  To that, I say, quit being a baby and go get you some very good and good for you dinner.  You’ll spend a lot less than you’d spend for the fake fast food-like stuff they sell on Gallatin Road and your tastebuds and metabolism will thank you.

So, you're going to follow your nose and pretty soon your tastebuds are going to be convinced...but how did this come about?  We talked to Benjamin, one of the founding fathers of the BEhive:

Well, it all started with a band, Born Empty, who all lived in the same house appropriately called The BE Hive. We were a group of dudes that could express ourselves in any way we liked, and as long as the message and approach was positive, nothing else mattered. Every couple months we held vegan potlucks at our house, The BE Hive. These potlucks were amazing with upwards of 70 people at times, a bonfire, and a kitchen overflowing with vegetarian dishes people had prepared and brought over. We eventually moved out of the house, held a couple potluck fundraisers at The Wild Cow, and then came up with the idea for this buffet and business model.

But BE is more than a band; it's a way of life. The BE Hive is about taking care of yourself, and doing what is right for you. We try to inflict the least amount of negative impact on people and the world around us, while positively influencing those who care to take notice and are open to different ideas. There are a lot of things that are wrong and misguided within our society, but the bottom line is you can't change anyone. People have to want change, and then control their actions towards doing so. This is why we lead by example, and just BE.

Uh.  Wait a minute.  Did he say...vegan?   As in... no meat, no dairy, no... as in VEGAN?

And I said to quit being a baby.

Here's what Benjamin had to say about omnivores and reluctant others who think it's all sprouts and bare, cold blocks of tofu:  

 Ha! I'd say don't tell them it's vegetarian! But I usually tell them that they just need to try the right things. Then I guarantee/challenge them that if they came to the buffet or let me cook for them, I could fill them up beyond their wildest dreams. A lot people associate vegetarian dishes with only salads,  tofu, and weird and pushy vegetarians ready to jump down their backs for eating meat. There are several alternatives to all those things, and with the right protein and side choices, you can fill up most anyone and have them be completely satisfied.

Anyway, Nashvillians are getting smarter about the ways they feed themselves not only in terms of what happens on the inside, but how it effects everything on an environmental and economic level.

 I'm seeing a big farm to table push recently among restaurants. I think one of the things that led me to being so strict and curious about my diet was they way people ate and lived their lives. Seeing this push makes me hopeful that more people are being conscious of the crap they are putting in their bodies (not limited to meat, but also vegetarian items), and push the local organic farming scene while keeping people away from genetically modified and over processed foods

You know, or will know the food is good and they are green to the marrow, but more important than that is what is at the heart of the BEhive: the creative spirit that fosters commuity and the causes they support.

The Collective part of The BE Hive involves the customer, host restaurant. farms, community, the organizations who support the community, and the Hive itself. The gifts people bring are themselves. The customer brings their money, eats healthy food, and walks away feeling nourished and good knowing that some of their money is going towards bettering their community in some way. The host restaurant is associated with a fundraiser, continues to have a day off, gets free advertising, and also walks with some extra money. The community is supported by the non profits that are being benefited. The farm gets the extra business and exposure, and the Hive gets to help people, be creative, build their business and menu, and also profit a little.    

We try to support local organizations with green and sustainable motives.  We like to support the bike community, famers, the arts, kids, and whatever else makes a difference. My favorite organization that we have benefited so far has been the Glencliff Garden Project. They teach high schoolers how to start and maintain gardens while also introducing them to the world of plant based whole foods instead of the more processed food items which are more easily available to the majority of kids in this nation.

So what's ahead for The BEhive?  Tomorrow they are participating in a benefit ride for Bejamin Waldman and on the 14th, they will resume their buffets at The Wild Cow, with an Indian menu benefiting Good Food For Good People.

We plan to continue the buffet and the farmers market, and hopefully add a location or two. We want to have several fundraiser events a month in different spots around Nashville and continue to use other peoples empty kitchens while building our menu and developing our catering abilities. We have some things up our sleeve, but nothing is definite yet. We plan to expand though, and I promise it will be done in a very different way then you've seen before.

Being a force for good can be as life changing as creating a business that does so much for so many.  It can also be as simple as changing the way you do a few things at home. ENFM blog asked Benjamin what three things he would like to see people do to make Nashville a greener place:

I'd like to see Nashville become a more bicycle friendly place, riders and drivers both included. The recycling in this town SUCKS, and I feel that needs to be overhauled. And I wish all public places would be smoke free. Nashville is behind the times with all of these things, and I think its about time we wake up.

To learn more about The BEhive, visit their website at www.BEthehive.com
and follow them on Twitter and Facebook for up to the minute news on what the guys are up to.

Flying S Farms: Ten Years of Deep Roots and Strong Values

by Jas Faulkner 

"This is our way of life, it is not a hobby but a living. We love what we do, it is hard work but at the end of the day we know we are providing the best we can grow and helping others learn what real food tastes like and where it comes from, locally!" 
                        -Catherine Simmons,  Flying S Farms

One of the benefits of getting your produce from a true farmers market is that you are buying it  from the people who actually grew what you see on the tables. A visit to each individual vendor can and often does reveal the personalities behind the people who create the places that produce what feeds you. In a way, it's a chance to get a feel for those farms.  Okay, it's not absolutely like being there, but it can be the next best thing. 


The Flying S Farms' retail space at ENFM brings to mind the green, sunny expanses of Cannon County, Tennessee.  It is a treat for the senses. In spite of this summer's challenging weather, everything looks lush and vibrant.  There is the smell of fresh produce, sometimes accompanied by a tantalizing whiff of items from their kitchen.

You will also encounter Catherine and Ben Simmons, the owners and operators of Flying S Farms and Baking Farmer.com.   The Simmons are not only part of that elite subset of farmers who work on sustainable terms with their environment, they act as approachable ambassadors to anyone who is not quite sure why it is so important to support local agriculture.  


Their sense of community and a natural instinct towards education informs much of what they do.   In fact, it was an observation made by a child Mrs. Simmons encountered in a grocery store that inspired her decision to add prepared foods to their products:

"Baking Farmer came about when I was shopping at one of our local grocery stores and during checkout a young child pointed at me and said "Look mommie, there is that farmer lady and she bakes too!" They had been to our local farmers market and shopped at our booth and I guess through the eyes of a child she ?described me; a 'baking farmer'."

Simmons attests doing all of this can put her in the position of educating people about what that farm has to offer:

"You can not just place your produce on a table and say here it is, you've got to promote it. You need to learn what the produce taste like, how to use it, how to store it and where it comes from. People are so far removed from the farm anymore, they don't know what it takes to produce it or how to use it. We are amazed how many people do not know that green beans do not grow cut up!"

Even with the odd customer who thinks their green beans sprout from the ground already French cut, it is encouraging to see the increase in return customers and the growing awareness of the nature of food production and how it directly affects everyone involved in the process.  The Simmons credit the current market manager (Amy Delvin of Delvin Farms) with much of the market's success.

Even though Flying S Farms is a relative newcomer, having started operations in 2002, the Simmons have strong emotional ties to where they work and live.  Catherine Simmons recounts the history of the farm:

"Ben has always been involved in some form of Agriculture since a young child in Arkansas and Mississippi and through the years has worked with John Deere and with row crop farmers in Tennessee in various ways. My background came from parents of the Depression, we always had a garden in our backyard in Arizona. I recall my dad giving me some yellow banana squash seeds to plant in my very own 5x5 plot, we went on vacation for couple weeks and returning home my squash plants had taken over our backyard! He told me I was a born gardener and I had a green thumb because he never dreamed the seeds would even grow. I was hooked. In 2002 Flying S Farms began when Ben and I moved to the farm to care for my mother after the passing of my father. We met a family that market farmed and they encouraged us to make our kitchen garden larger and sell the excess at local farmers markets. We started very small with about 1/4 acre over a couple years making a few more plots I called Ben and told him Flying S Farms was growing, when he got home that evening I had tilled up the rest of the field with drive around plots, there was now 2 acres of growing room. Flying S Farms is still growing on acreage that we lease locally."

The name of the farm is also steeped in family history:

"As a young man, Ben designed a brand for their family farming business, his father was a pilot in WW2 and Ben followed in his dad's love of flying and he used the Army Aircorp Wings as inspiration for their brand."

Fans of "The S" state that the hearts, hands and minds that drive the farm can be seen in the quality of what appears on their tables.  Most of what goes in to the prepared foods they offer from their licensed commercial kitchen is either directly from their fields or provided by local farmers.  Customers can also be confident that the same care goes into their produce.

"We use natural and organic methods of growing our produce, the produce is getting their nutrients from the soil, not from commercial fertilizers. We sow covercrops in the early fall in various locations of our field to turn under in the spring providing the soil with green manure. During the growing season, we cultivate any weeds and grasses that grow between rows back into the soil. All our plants are either direct sown or started from seed in our greenhouse. We grow mostly heirloom type produce, the real thing and the real taste! As for day to day work, that is exactly it, work!"

Want to know more?  Visit Flying S Farms at East Nashville Farmers Market and on the internet at:  

www.bakingfarmer.com
www.flyingsfarms.blogspot.com

A Chick Chick Here and a Chick Chick There

by Jas Faulkner 

Here a chick!

There a chick!

Everywhere a chick chick! 

Depending on who you ask, chickens can be cute and fluffy or big and scary or bug-eating fertilizing phenoms or good friends with egg benefits. For people who have never spent much time around them, they are bit of an enigma.  Their presence as part of Nashville's burgeoning localtarian culture has caused some of the more heated arguments in city council over the past few months.  So what is it about these complex, sensitive creatures that incites so much passionate debate?  ENFM sat down with Mary Self, a Middle Tennessee chicken enthusiast who is quickly turning into one of their most persuasive advocates.

According to Self, there are a number of things to take into consideration when deciding whether or not to keep chickens, not the least of which is location.  Some districts opted out of the current ordinance and others placed restrictions based on the amount of space you have available. 

Per Self:  According to the ordinance there must be a minimum of two square feet per hen provided for henhouses and six square feet per bird for fenced enclosures.
In an urban setting, following the ordinance, the chickens depend on the owner for fresh food and water and protection. No free ranging! I visit my girls 3 or 4 times a day for between 10-15 minutes each visit. I bring them fresh food and water in the morning, they get a few treats a day and then I check them at night to make sure they are tucked in and safe. 

No free ranging means you'll have to provide a coop for your little cluckers. There are retailers offering coops, pens and "chicken tractors" that range from budget friendly basic to palatial in scale and ornamentation.  Ms Self confirms that premade coops can get spendy.

 "Well, that is totally up to the person because some coops can cost hundreds or thousands of dollars, however we built our coop for $400."

The biggest expenses occur at the beginning.  The chickens seem to cost considerably less and and maintenance is reasonable:

"Our chicks cost $5 each and a 50 lb bag of convential feed costs about $20. A feeder and water bottle cost about $10 each. I have also had a few vet visits with my chickens so that adds up quickly. Over time, I don't think it will feel expensive because they are my pets and I love them."

So. You have the cute little house, the safe place for them to play and stuff for feeding and watering and...chickens.  Where do we get chickens?  Self says you can go the traditional route and buy them locally or shop online,   A quick look at hatchery (chickery?) websites reveal dozens of breeds of poultry.  Some are pretty, others are sleekly practical.   It all depends on why you want chickens. Metro ordinances will allow chickens for eggs only.  Self recommends Rhode Island Reds, Barred Rocks, Opringtons, Araucanas, and Marans.  

"I have two Buff Orpingtons, Thelma and Louise, who have been laying an egg almost every day since they turned 6 months old," she added. 

Is it worth it?  Ms Self says the happiness a feathered friend can bring into your life is contagious:

"Where should I start? I love it! I look forward to visiting them during the day. They each have a different personallity and they "talk" to me. Their eggs are delicious. The yolks are a beautiful shade of orange and taste creamy and fresh. I share eggs with my closest friends and some of my husband's co-workers. The girls are not messy and my neighbors love them. I have one neighbor who is currently building their own coop. It's a beneficial relationship, like dogs and cats, but my pets make my breakfast!"

and has inspired an ingenious business idea... 

 "I only worry when I go out of town because it is hard to find someone to care for them. I am actually thinking of starting a chicken sitting service to help others."

Does urban chicken keeping sound like it might be your cuppa?  Join Mary Self and other like-minded fans of our feathered friends at Urban Chicken Advocates of Nashville. UCAN Is a volunteer group that provides education and advocacy for people who wish to keep hens in Metro Nashville. Her hope is that the group can help keep the ordinance alive.  

"Our next meeting will be in September and anyone interested should sign up on our website www.ucannashville.org The ordinance has a sunset clause attached to it and in 18 months it will be up for more discussion and a final vote. If Nashvillains want to have the right to raise hens they really need to communicate with their council members and become a part of UCAN!"

For more information, visit UCAN online at www.ucannashville.org and be sure to say "Hi!" to Mary at ENFM, where she acts as an outreach educator for Nashville Foodscapes.

Nashville Foodscapes: A Gentle Approach to Revolutionary Change

 by Jas Faulkner


"I am most proud that more hands are getting dirty, and that more mouths are eating local."
                    -Jeremy Lekich, Nashville Foodscapes

Like many Green visionaries, Jeremy Lekich has a lot of faith in the people he hopes to reach.  Souls on such a mission are often presumed to be impatient, wanting to see big changes sooner rather than later.  Lekitch has taken the time to understand his chosen audience. To him, the pace that Middle Tennesseans take when it comes to change seems about right.  


"Nashville people take their time with it. The Southeast is behind most other areas of the U.S. in terms of moving towards "green" living. I do not believe this is bad or good. It just means we are taking the time to do it well."


Lekich is one of the minds behind Nashville Foodscapes.  He wants to see more people filling  their souls, tables, and pantries by gardening.  Many prospective farmers find anything beyond a planter full of patio tomatoes daunting. Lekich recognizes this.  In fact, he maintains that the perception that you have to know everything from the beginning is one of the more common objections Nashvillians raise when the subject of permaculture gardening comes up. 

"I believe the biggest challenge for people is to not become overwhelmed by all there is to learn. The knowledge base for living a life of good stewardship is wonderfully huge and can be intimidating. But you start with what you are interested in and move from there. Overall, this type of living creates a life with no boring or dull moments...there is always more to learn." said Lekich.


What is permaculture gardening and how does it differ from the Victory Gardens of the previous century and the sustainable household gardens that are touted as the next big thing in the slow food movement?  Permaculture gardening is a far more interdisciplinary approach.  Instead of clear demarcations that separate the form and function of space, the landscaping flows between plants that are designed to maintain the health of the soil, plants that are meant to beautify where we live and plants that are intended to produce food for the household.  Some plants might meet one of those needs while others do double and triple duty.  The goal is to create a synergistic environment that feeds the body, mind, and soul.  


For Lekich, this means thinking beyond the basics of sustainability:  "To be honest, I am not a proponent of the "sustainability movement". We need to move beyond sustainability. Sustainability asks that resources are not depleted and that we put in as much as we take out. Our resources are depleted... and polluted. We need to detoxify our resources and put in more then we take out. That is regeneration. Lets become the regeneration movement."

The spark, or rather the seed for Lekich's ideas began to germinate while he was still in school: "The main inspiration for Nashville Foodscapes comes from a Permaculture garden I worked on at Warren Wilson College. Beauty and food weave together so gracefully in that garden and the abundance and variety of foods is awesome.  It was a long dance with that Permaculture garden that eventually manifested into Nashville Foodscapes. 


It was the best preparation I had. I came into contact with a myriad collection of fruit trees and shrubs, fruiting vines and canes, vegetable, herbs, and more. I learned how to grow these plants, give care for the plants, propagate these plants, and eat these plants. From there, I have expanded my knowledge by reading, talking with others, and exploring the areas around me. "


To learn more about permaculture gardening, visit Nashville Foodscapes at East Nashville Farmers Market.  You can also contact Jeremy and his team by visiting his website: http://nashvillefoodscapes.com/

Thomas Jefferson, Green American

by Jas Faulkner

It may come as a surprise to many Americans that one of the most vocal proponents for the conservation of our farmlands and preservation of agrarianism as a way of life was also a founding father of this country. Thomas Jefferson may be remembered first and foremost as the primary author of the Declaration of Independence, but he considered himself to be a farmer by profession.  According to Jefferson, farming was the only truly pure and honest profession.  He reasoned that farmers had to maintain a relationship with the land that did not allow for the byzantine devices put in place that alienated people from what sustained them.  A false promise to the earth accomplished nothing, but hard work and devotion to stewardship of the land could keep a nation fed.  

In Jefferson's own words:

“Those who labour in the earth are the chosen people of God, if ever he had a chosen people, whose breasts he has made his peculiar deposit for substantial and genuine virtue. It is the focus in which he keeps alive that sacred fire, which otherwise might escape from the face of the earth.” 

                       - from "Notes on the State of Virginia 1781

 Today's organic farmers are looking to the wisdom of older techniques of farming, many of which were borrowed from indigenous people who had cultivated the land long generations before the arrival of the Europeans. Just like those contemporary farmers, Jefferson was very aware of the techniques that had been created by his predecessors.  Their watchful, mindful use of the earth was not lost on the statesman from Virginia, who observed and recorded the effects of everything he tried.


Thomas Jefferson's respect for his profession extended beyond merely practicing within the bounds of accepted vocational wisdom.  He experimented with the combinations of plants within the same plot, crop rotation, seed saving, soil amendment and fertilization, and even inventive ideas for tools.  Most important of all was Jefferson's endorsement of the concept that the land itself was as alive as the plants that grew on it and required just as much care.
 
On the eve of the 236th anniversary of the US declaration of independence, take a moment to remember the founding fathers, many of whom were farmers themselves.  They're the reason we can celebrate what we enjoy today.  Their lives should also serve as examples of how we should view the land we have been given.


Happy Independence Day! 
(and see y'all next week!)   


Jas Faulkner and everyone at The East Nashville Farmers Market

Delvin Farms' Green Revolution Is A Family Affair

by Jas Faulkner

“People are not going to buy produce with spots on them.”  

Family matriarch Cindy usually had a lot of faith in the next generation of the Delvin Family.  With one son having recently returned from a stint in the Peace Corp and a daughter who had found a new mission in life inspired by her urban middle school students, the idea of taking the farm one step further into a movement that could make the world a better place seemed well-intentioned, but far fetched.

The Delvins were already successful farmers.  From the beginning of their business in 1972 they had built up a clientele that included household names to most Middle Tennesseans such as Kroger and Shoney’s.  Their thriving twenty-five year old farm wasn’t in need of any kind of makeover.

Amy Delvin remembers that summer in 1997:

“During my brother’s time in the Peace Corp, he had observed farmers using methods that were passed down from one generation to the next.  He came home and tried to tell our parents that there was a way to have successful crops without using conventional technology: pesticides, chemicals, GMOs. 

 “Dad gave him a section of land so he could try it. He used organic methods to grow heirloom tomatoes, for which he got four times as much as Dad got for his conventional tomatoes. That was all it took for him to see that people would be willing to buy organic produce.”

Of course the bottom line was a consideration, but Hank and Cindy Delvin had always taught their kids the importance of maintaining a strong set of principles behind whatever they chose to do.  In a family that valued learning, growth, and doing things the right way, exploring more sustainable ways to farm was the logical next step.

 “My parents originally focused on one or two kinds of tomatoes, greens, and very  traditional, familiar  varieties of produce. We grow a greater variety of vegetables now.  People are more aware of what’s out there and so the demand is greater –not only for organic produce- but heirloom varieties as well.

“Growing up on a farm, you’re aware of the importance of taking good care of the land.  We began to educate ourselves so we could do what was necessary to become a USDA certified organic farm.”

 Part of that transition included expanding and changing their customer base. This would mean reaching out to a new kind of consumer.

Amy Delvin Tavalin prepares for
an afternoon at the Farmers Market.

Amy Delvin Tavalin had returned to the farm after years of teaching at a middle school in Baltimore.  During a discussion of Harper Lee’s “To Kill A Mockingbird”, she had what some people would call a “lightbulb moment”. 

“We had just read the scene where Jem and Scout were in Boo Radley’s collard patch and one of my students asked me what a collard was.  I realized that these kids grew up never knowing what it was like to have someone in the family living and working on a farm.  Many of them didn’t even have grandparents who gardened.  They had no sense of where their food came from.”

She implemented some opportunities for her students in Maryland to learn more about farming, but realized her family farm back in College Grove, Tennessee offered an opportunity to educate children (and adults) about the importance of agriculture.  Working with educators in Tennessee she created programs that gave kids a day on the farm who might have gone their entire childhood without the chance to see a tomato ripening on the vine.

The new model of agribusiness they were following would offer the public another way to be more directly involved with getting their food from the field to the table.  By 1998, the 140 acre farm* was certified organic and in 1999 they began their CSA with 90+ subscribers. The philosophy was straightforward: provide a way for consumers to buy their produce directly from the people who grew it.  This would eliminate any mystery about the identity or the producer or the quality and safety of the product.

Ironically, simplification for customers meant a whole host of challenges and expenses for the Delvins.  The certification process was much more than just a matter of paperwork and fees.  Inspectors had to flown in, housed and fed, all at the expense of the Delvins.  In order to be able to identify as USDA Certified Organic, they had to submit to inspections of the land, the equipment and all of their paperwork, which has to account for the chain of custody and provenance of the seeds they use. 

Is it worth it? The Delvin Family seems to think so, and so do the over seven hundred subscribers who participate in their CSA.  Every year they enjoy weekly boxes of in-season produce from the farm that now grows over 80 varieties of organic fruits and vegetables.

When asked what plant had grown the most in popularity, Amy says it has to be kale. 

“We were the sole provider of kale to Shoney’s for a long time.” 

According to Shoney's logic,
kale was just too pretty to eat.

Anyone who ever visited a Shoney’s is probably trying to recall seeing kale on the menu. The truth is, it was never offered as part of their fare.  Diners certainly saw it on every plate to emerge from the kitchen, not to mention all over their salad and breakfast bars.  Remember those large, dark green leaves underneath certain entrees and buffet offerings and the curly green sides on every plate and around the edges of the buffet stations?  That wasn’t parsley, it was kale from Delvin Farms.   

“That’s right,” says Ms Tavalin,  “One of the healtiest items we grow was originally used as a decoration.  We sold them boxes upon boxes of kale and my mother would always try to talk them into cooking it.  She told them they could serve it just like any other green.”

Chef and slow food activist Rick Bayless advises anyone who wants to eat better to "get your food from the periphery of the store."  Take it one step further and get your food from the remembered periphery of a Middle Tennessee culinary institution.  This time, it's not about eating something on a dare from your big sister, it's tasting what you've been missing.

*Delvin Farm has grown considerably since then.  They now have 220 acres.

Time To Get Adventurous!

by Jas Faulkner 
author's note:  Next week, ENFMBlog will feature an interview with Amy Delvin.  We'll talk about the history of Delvin Farm -and- cue some scary music here, find out which healthy market mainstay started out as almost unidentifiable industrial decorative matter.  You won't want to miss it! 

A nutritional anthropology study conducted by the University of Florida in 1988 suggested that North Americans had better access to a bigger variety of healthy, fresh foods than most of the rest of the world and yet the average consumer limited themselves to approximately eight to twelve different plant-based foods.  In the quarter century (give or take a few months) that have gone by since then, Americans have begun to put more thought into where their food comes from and how it is produced.

The effort to localize production and consumption has led to rethinking heritage and indigenous food crops that had fallen out of favor.  Our culinary vocabulary is starting to expand and with it comes a more extensive repertoire of dishes and techniques that sometimes start out as experiments and eventually become familiar household favorites.

There are plenty of reasons people don't eat specific varieties or whole categories of fruits and vegetables.  Sometimes it can be a question of rediscovering a favorite that a grandparent might have grown in the summer. Sometimes it means trying a food you've heard of but never tasted.  Sometimes its simply a matter of access. Whatever the reason, local growers are eliminating those excuses.  Which reminds me of one last excuse: you tried it and you didn't like it.

If your parents were like mine, they probably asked you to try at least a bite or two before deciding it was off the menu for you.  Okay.  I'm going to make that same suggestion.  If you see something in your CSA share or it's sitting there in your sample box, and you know this food makes you sad to even think that someone somewhere considers it edible, just stop.  Don't ask to swap it out.  Don't try to palm it off on the nearest child who looks like he's dying to carry something fresh to Mommy. In short, quit being a baby.

Here is a list of seven foods to look for that you may or may not have tried. If they're not in season right now, they will be soon.

Kale

Kale - curly or luxuriantly leafy, this green is packed with nutrients and flavor.  Try it sauteed, in soups, chopped and raw in salads.  One of the classic dishes for this veggie is a stew made with cannellini beans, kale, and chicken.

Collards

Collards - They are a food of the gods.  You can usually find them bundled together in bunches of four to six large leaves. If you want to try something beyond the usual greens-n-pork preparation, take a look at this recipe from an earlier ENFM post: Collard Greens w/ Poblano Chiles and Chorizo. 

Basil

                                                                                                                      Basil -  This sweet-smelling herb is the primary taste profile in pesto and margherita pizza.  It also makes a great aromatic garnish for cold ades and a soothing addition to an herbal bath.   Try a few leaves  on a toasted sandwich with fresh tomato and provolone.

Arugula

Arugula - Steve Martin's character in "My Blue Heaven" couldn't live without it.  This peppery green makes a great addition to any salad or stir fry.  Great on a fresh tomato sandwich or served as a finger food a la cress.  

Garlic scapes

Garlic Scapes -  The tender, curly blooming stalks of garlic are often trimmed so the bulbs will grow bigger.    Lucky you if you find anyone selling them!  They're great in stir fries, caramelized over milder cuts of meat and cooked into pasta sauces.  2 Sisters Garlic has an entire page devoted to ways to prepare garlic scapes. 

Was Geno's Cup win fuled by his
mama's lucky borscht? 

Beets - Most people have tasted them pickled or as crispy veggie chips. The roots are great roasted. The greens?  They perk up a tossed salad and fit right in with any kind of greens mix, cooked or raw.  For a change of pace, go for the tried and true.  Every year, the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette posts Natalia Malkin's Lucky Borscht Recipe.  Does it work?  You might not lift the cup like Evgeni did in 2009, but you'll find it is a tasty piece of Russian culture and a good way to use beets.

Sweet potatoes

Sweet Potatoes -  Many of us were scared away from this nutritious root vegetable by the glutenous casserole that seemed to appear at every big family dinner.  Topped with burned marshmallows, each mouthful was a minefield of mush and the odd stealth pecan half that might or might not have been properly shelled.  Ah, the holidays!  The good news is that sweet potatoes don't have to be such gut bombs.  They're delicious baked with a little butter or olive oil and a pinch of red pepper.  Rick Bayless has a recipe for  a healthier version of baked sweet potato fries that will make you forget that scary concoction your sweet Aunt Estelle used to bring to family gatherings.

Honestly, it's just a vegetable!

That should get you started.  Okay, Indiana Jones, get out there and try something new to you.  There won't be a test, but there will be another list with some more familiar-but-not-to-you vegetables.  Until then, bon appetit!